Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Reform in Gulf States Proves Non-Democracies Work

The following piece is the first article I've written for www.policymic.com, a website for young people to have their voices heard and to engage in lively, intelligent discussions about the world today. Drawing upon my experience in the UAE, this piece argues that, basically, monarchy doesn't have to be as bad as we all think it is. The smaller Gulf states, which are all ruled by monarchs, prove that hereditary rulers can provide for citizens' prosperity and well-being.

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Reform in Gulf States Proves Non-Democracies Work

When the young Tunisian street vendor Mohamed Bouazizi lit himself on fire in front of authorities in late 2010, his actions and the subsequent Tunisian uprising lit a spark that ignited the entire region.

But one part of the Middle East that has remained relatively stable has been the smaller Gulf states: Kuwait, Oman, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates. With the exception of Bahrain, the smallest countries of the Gulf Cooperation Council have remained fairly insulated from the revolutionary cries spreading throughout the rest of the region. There have been small protests calling for limited reform, but nothing close to the scale of the protests in Tunisia and Egypt. This is surprising, given that these countries are all monarchies with power concentrated at the top and limited opportunity for popular political representation.

The reasons for these monarchs’ relative stability stem from their abilities to modernize, liberalize, and provide for their people. The fact that these countries have generated great wealth from oil revenues has surely helped to assuage citizens’ financial concerns, but not without the leaders' commitment to putting that wealth to work for the people.

Kuwait is the most democratic of the four countries. It holds elections for parliament, which has significant lawmaking powers, and is the only one of the Gulf countries that is ranked by Freedom House as “Partly Free,” instead of “Not Free.” But other prosperous Gulf states have presented Kuwait as an argument against holding elections. Many view the Kuwaiti parliament's extensive wrangling over what are often seen as petty issues as a barrier to development in that country.

For instance, in 2008, Kuwait Emir Sheikh Sabah al-Ahmad al-Sabah dissolved parliament because of the quarreling. Sultan bin Mohamed al-Qassimi, a political columnist in the UAE, contrasted growth in the UAE to stagnation in Kuwait, pointing to democratic politics as an issue: "Look at Kuwait. We can see how politics made the country stagnant. We have been able to overtake the country that used to be the richest in the Gulf."

Among these four, Oman has been most affected by the Arab Spring, as some Omanis have gathered to protest labor standards, unemployment, and the lack of freedoms. But the sentiment in Oman has generally been, "Long live the Sultan, but give us some reforms." Loyalty to Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said — the current leader who has been in power for over 40 years — remains strong, and many of the activists who have staged protests in the country have also declared their allegiance to the sultan. Omanis see him as the figure who transformed their country to a modern state with widespread access to health care, education, and many modern luxuries. Many Omanis may want more freedoms, but one of them is not necessarily to elect their leader.

Even without mass civil unrest, the monarchs have recognized the potential threat of the Arab Spring to their own positions and have been quick to respond. Each of them has introduced some sort of political or social reform since January. Kuwait’s cabinet resigned earlier in the year, new benefit programs were announced, and the emir has expressed his recognition that political reform is needed to improve its democracy. Oman’s sultan issued 28 royal decrees, reshuffling the cabinet and giving more legislative power to the partially elected Oman Council. The UAE announced that it will hold elections for the Federal National Council in September, and that the number of people allowed to cast votes will be 20 times the number who were able to in 2006. Qatar held municipal local elections in May, with parliamentary elections to come in 2013.

There is a tendency in media and academic circles to dismiss recent democratic reforms in the Gulf states as simply symbolic moves on the parts of monarchs to silence protesters, and not real steps toward meaningful reform. But these are baby steps toward democracy. Chairman of the UAE National Election Committee Anwar Gargash admits political change will occur gradually, suiting the “country’s temper.” He also said, “Creating meaningful participation is a necessity, not a sideshow.” Full-fledged democracy and reform will not happen overnight.

We should be wary to transpose the idea of "American exceptionalism" onto the stable Gulf states — namely, the sentiment that the final solution is liberal democracy worldwide, and that we should work to hasten it. These states have shown us that remarkable growth and prosperity can occur in a non-democracy.

The Gulf states undoubtedly have room to grow in terms of affording more voice and freedoms to their citizens, but when these states choose to introduce reforms in response to the will of their people, it will be a gradual process. And this process, slowly but surely, has already begun. While some of the reforms are certainly more meaningful than others, it is important to remember that Gulf states have little to no history and experience with democracy, so they are doing things at their own pace. Rather than forcing a weak democracy onto a relatively strong state, democratic reforms should be taken slowly and on their own time.

View the article and comments on PolicyMic.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Dubai For Sale

In his 1991 book, America for Sale, the Egyptian traveler Mahmud Imara wrote:

It is said that a few people immigrated to America in search of God, but the overwhelming majority of immigrants came in search of gold.
Everything in America is for sale. With the dollar you can buy anything: railway stations, airports, churches, cemeteries with the dead buried in them. Everything. Everything except wives and kids. But wives in America can sell their husbands.
Everywhere in America you will find ads about items for sale: in the streets, on corners, on houses, on cars, and even airplanes. Newspapers devote about 70 percent of their space for ads. On TV ads are the one and the only revenue for TV channels. Whole channels are sometimes totally devoted to ads; the ads are run for 24-hours-a-day and people can buy with a simple phone call during which they provide their credit cards numbers and the next day they get the merchandise by mail.
There was land for sale, property for sale, an island for sale, America itself for sale. But who would buy America? Americans or foreigners?


After being in the United Arab Emirates for the past several months, I have seen that, in fact, this country has taken the idea that "everything is for sale" to a whole new level.

In America, we have the "vanity plate," a license plate that a car owner can pay a bit of extra money for in order to put a special word or abbreviation that holds meaning for them. In the Emirates, the license plates are as vain as can be. License plates here are not an expression of creativity or originality; rather, they are an expression of status and wealth. It seems like many people here have more money than they know what to do with, so they spend millions of dirhams buying a scrap of metal with a low number printed on it to attach to their Mercedes, Range Rover, Lamborghini or Bentley.

The lower the number, or the "cooler" the number, the more a license plate will cost. Abu Dhabi, being the richer emirate, has more expensive number plates with only numerical digits and different colors. Dubai license plates are plain black and white and normally carry a letter and numbers. A single- or double-digit number plate can cost several million dirhams, and there are car magazines available with advertisements selling these plates. In 2008, a world record was set when the Abu Dhabi license plate bearing only the number "1" sold at auction for 52.2 million dirhams... that's 14 million U.S. dollars.








Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Jordan Trip: Day Three in Petra

On the third day of our trip to Jordan, Anwar and I woke up very early in the morning to catch a bus to Petra, Jordan, probably the most popular tourist destination in the country. Petra is a three and a half bus trip south of Amman, and it is the site of an ancient city carved into the mountains.

The way into the ancient city is through a long, narrow path through a gorge called the Siq. The walk through the Siq provides a perfect prelude to the magnificent spectacle that awaits at the end. There is the Treasury, a giant facade carved into pink rock that seems to glow in the sunlight.

Through the Siq to the Treasury

The Treasury

Beyond the Treasury there is an open area surrounded by mountains, cliffs, caves, and more carvings on the face of the rocks. Inside there are Bedouin people selling jewelry, teapots, scarves, and donkey/camel rides. As one Bedouin man told us, the Bedouin people are the "true" Jordanians, as opposed to Jordanian-Palestinians who were mostly pushed out of the land of Palestine and settled in Jordan. These Bedouin live inside the mountain city and count on the tourists who come through for their livelihood. Many of the Bedu we met grew up in a cave with their families and speak several languages, which they learned from tourists. They know the terrain better than anyone, and it's amazing to watch Bedouin children on donkeys that clamber effortlessly up and down the mountains.

A Bedouin man with his camels

Caves in the mountainside

Anwar and I decided that we wanted to get a better view of the whole area, so we decided to take a climb up the mountains. Along the way we encountered more Bedu, mainly women, selling their wares to hikers on their way up the mountain trails. This is the view we saw at the top:

Great view of Petra

After coming back down to the main area, Anwar decided to get more in touch with his Jordanian roots by trying out the Kohl eyeliner that Bedouin men and women wear. A very nice Bedouin man offered to apply it for him, explaining that he makes the jet-black Kohl himself from ingredients found in the area. He also told us that the Bedu don't wear the eyeliner just to look more beautiful as most people think, but also because it protects the eyes from sun and helps to clean the eyes.

Anwar having Kohl applied by a Bedouin

In a Bedouin shop with pashmina and keffiyah scarves

By the end of the day, after a long hike up and down a mountain and throughout the city, Anwar and I were fairly tired and decided to ride camels back to the entrance. Our Bedouin camel guide walked beside our two camels, explaining that he could speak Japanese, Russian, English and Arabic. We discovered that he also speaks camel.


Sunday, April 3, 2011

Jordan Trip: Day Two in Jerash

On our second day in Jordan, Anwar and I visited a city less than an hour north of Amman called Jerash. We decided to take the most economical route to get there: a bus that runs twice a day that mainly transports locals between Amman and Jerash. The bus usually stops on the north end of town, but luckily the driver noticed that we were not locals and made a special stop to let us off at the archeological site.

The South Gate of the ruins at Jerash

Jerash is the site of ancient Roman ruins that are absolutely spectacular to look at. The city of Amman's Citadel ruins pale in comparison to the ruins at Jerash. Highlights included the South Gate, Temple of Zeus, Temple of Artemis, as well a huge Oval Forum lined with giant columns.

Colonnaded cobblestone street

Overlooking the Oval Forum

A man in traditional Jordanian dress

Temple of Artemis


At the archeological site, Anwar and I decided to find a tour guide who would be able to tell us a bit more about the history of what we were looking at. We found a British couple who were being guided and asked if we could tag along on their tour. The tour guide was a Jordanian man named Muhammad who was absolutely hilarious. The British couple was a bit older, and our tour guide kept addressing the man as "Gentle Man" (said like two words) and "Doctor." He also clearly loved to take photos, and would take our cameras from us and take pictures if he felt we weren't getting the right angle on something. "No, here is the best spot!" "You will never forget me for this picture!" "This one's worth a million!"

Our friendly tour guide, Muhammad

Jerash was absolutely stunning, not only because of the magnificence of the ruins but also for the landscape and its natural beauty. The ruins sit atop rolling hills of vibrant green grass, and shepherds still graze their goats on the site.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Spring Break Trip to Jordan: Day One

This entry is about day one of a four-day trip to Jordan. This post will be continued later with the next three days.

One of the great things about living in the United Arab Emirates is that there are plenty of interesting places to visit that are only a short plane or bus trip away. Recently, my boyfriend and I decided to take advantage of this fact by taking a trip for spring break. At first, we discussed at length about visiting Beirut, Lebanon for the week. Beirut is a popular destination for many people who live in the Emirates because it is a fairly liberal society with great nightlife. But after talking about it a bit more, Anwar and I decided that perhaps it would be better to spend five days in another Levantine country: Jordan. Even though Anwar's nationality is Jordanian and he lived there for a couple of years, he left much of the country unexplored. And wow, is there a lot to explore! I also wanted to visit Jordan because my former roommate from Lewis & Clark, Charlotte, is there on an exchange program.

Our trip to Jordan was the most spontaneous trip I've ever taken (we purchased the plane tickets 12 hours before leaving, and did so with almost no plan), which perhaps was a contributing factor to it being the most amazing trip I've ever taken.

After arriving at Queen Alia airport in Amman, we took a taxi to the hotel that we'd booked for a night before leaving Dubai. After resting up a bit at the hotel, we then decided to go downtown to eat. Our taxi driver recommended a Palestinian-Jordanian restaurant called al-Quds Restaurant, where we ordered the Jordanian national dish called mansaf. The dish is so simple, yet so delicious: herbed meat atop a bed of rice. I ordered chicken and Anwar had lamb. Even though I came in very hungry, I was barely able to eat half of my plate. After dinner we walked down the street to a sweets shop also recommended by our taxi driver, called Habibeh. There we stood in line to get a slice of Kunafah, which is a popular dessert found all across the Arab world. Jordanians are known for their sweet tooth, and this dish is sweet enough to satisfy anyone. Kunafah is made with a shredded orange-colored crispy pastry with a bottom layer of cheese or cream. After our excellent meal, we spent the rest of the night driving around town trying to find a more economical hotel for the rest of the week than the one recommended by Expedia.com. We finally found a place in a great area called Swefiyeh; it was a nice hotel run by a friendly set of locals.

The next day, our first full day in Jordan, Anwar and I decided to explore the city of Amman. We woke up early and had our taxi driver drop us on Rainbow Street to have breakfast at a restaurant that Charlotte told us to try out. Unfortunately, the place was closed until late morning, a few hours. We'd have to find something to do to fill in time before we could come back and have lunch there. I pulled out my map of Amman and noticed that the Roman Amphitheatre was not far from where we were. So we started walking in that general direction.

Looking across the city of Amman, with a rooftop restaurant in the foreground

Down a typical Amman sidestreet

Amman is a huge maze of hills, staircases, side streets and old stone houses. There's no looking at a map of the city and deciding exactly which streets to take to get there. Instead, you walk in the general direction and keep going until you find what you're looking for. This is how we ended up downtown again in a busy area lined with shops, restaurants, and locals trying to get you to buy their freshly squeezed juice. After about half an hour of walking and no sign of the aphitheatre, I looked at my map of Amman again and found the intersection where we stood. I realized that we were standing literally across the street from the Roman ruins. We turned around, and there it was--right in the middle of this busy downtown area.

Trying to get downtown in the maze of stairs

Mosque on a busy street near the Roman aphitheatre

The Roman Aphitheatre, rubbing elbows with the city of Amman

In the Roman Aphitheatre

Looking out across the aphitheatre, Anwar and I found our next destination: the Citadel atop a nearby hill. We planned which streets and stairs to take to get there, and after spending a few more moments admiring the grandeur of the Roman theatre architecture, set out for the Citadel.

Getting tired... walking up the steep stairs to the Citadel

The view of Amman from the Citadel's hill was absolutely spectacular. The city sprawled across all 360 degrees of the view, with no end in sight to the hills crowded haphazardly with stone buildings.
View of the theatre from the Citadel hill

A view from the Citadel hill

Another view from the Citadel hill, with New Amman's taller buildings in the background

The Citadel site was scattered with ruins of old pillars, facades, walls, and even parts of giant statues. The ruins there are from the Roman and Ummayyad periods. It was interesting for me to see the layout and ruins of an Ummayyad palace, having studied this era of architecture in my Islamic Arts & Architecture class last semester.

Ruins of the Temple of Hercules (Roman, 2nd century)

The remains of a large Roman statue's hand near the Temple of Hercules

To be continued...

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Meeting President Bill Clinton in Dubai

Near the end of last semester, I had the distinct honor of meeting President Bill Clinton. He was in Dubai giving the keynote address at the Middle East North Africa Diabetes Leadership Forum. President Clinton usually meets all of the William Jefferson Clinton Scholars at the American University in Dubai to congratulate them, so this was our chance. It was a very exciting opportunity to meet such a distinguished American leader and icon. I thought I'd share some pictures from the event.
And not only did we get to meet Bill Clinton, but also the third-tallent man in the world and the tallest in the UAE!

You can read the American University of Dubai's news release about our meeting here: http://www.aud.edu/About_AUD/NewsEvents/2010/event_2010_141.asp

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Egypt

The past few days and weeks have seen the Arab world erupt in protests against autocratic government. First in Tunisia, where people rose up against their government and ousted a bad leader because of poor living conditions and inadequate protections of freedoms. Then in Cairo, where thousands, mainly young people, have taken to the streets in protest of a leader who has led too long with too little to show for it. The sentiment behind the protests in Tunisia and Egypt have spread now to Yemen and Jordan, and solidarity protests have been held throughout the world.

The protests in Egypt have put the U.S. government between a rock and a hard place. It's easy to see the irony in the American government's predicament. President Mubarak has been an important U.S. ally in the Middle East, and Egypt is the largest recipient of American foreign aid behind Israel. But President Mubarak is also a dictator who hides behind a transparent guise of democracy. His 30 years in power recently have been marked with obviously fraudulent elections and a citizenry completely dissatisfied with his rule. The American government now--more openly and uncomfortably than ever--has to negotiate its position between promoting principles of democracy and protecting its interests in the Middle East. Surprisingly--and luckily for the U.S. government--the most powerful political force in Egypt, the Muslim Brotherhood, is not the driving force behind the recent protests. But if the Mubarak regime were toppled, it is likely that the Muslim Brotherhood could fill the resulting power vacuum. This would not bode well for U.S. interests in the region given the anti-American alignment of the Brotherhood.

I am glad that the Obama Administration has chosen not to come out in strong support of the Mubarak regime in face of the popular uprising. I can only imagine the intense conversations between President Obama and his advisers concerning how to respond to the chaos. I hope that Obama will fully support the popular will of the Egyptian people in this time, recognizing that the U.S. has talked the talk, but now needs to walk the walk of being a beacon of democracy. This moment is undoubtedly an important one for Egypt, the Arab world, and America...it will be interesting to watch how these events continue to unfold.