Abu Dhabi

Now that classes have been going on for about two weeks, I think I've settled into my work/play balance. I am absolutely loving my classes and the chance I'm getting here to focus on one field of study. AUD offers a Certificate in Middle East Studies, an 18-credit (6 class) program focused on Middle East history, culture, language and religion, and I'll receive the certificate at the end of this semester. All of my classes focus on various aspects of the Middle East. The five classes I'm taking are:

• Islamic Contributions to World Civilizations
• Introduction to Middle East History
• Special Topics in Middle East Studies: Iraq
• Conflict in the Middle East
• Islamic Art & Architecture

The classes overlap and inform each other, and it's great to know that when I'm studying for one class, I'm also studying for the others as well. With the exception of my intensive Arabic class at Georgetown the summer before last, I haven't had the chance to study one special topic in depth without having to worry about anything else. I'm loving it, and I feel like this is how school should be!

This past weekend a few friends and I decided to take a short road trip to Abu Dhabi, Dubai's neighboring emirate and the capital of the United Arab Emirates. The original intention of the trip was for to attend a concert by the DJ Tiesto, but unfortunately on the way there Blackberrys were blowing up with the news that the concert had been canceled due to "technical difficulties." But of course it's Abu Dhabi, and if you've seen 'Sex and the City 2' you know that there is plenty to do in Abu Dhabi. My friends and I decided to go to a nightclub instead, which was packed with others who were missing out on the Tiesto concert.

I haven't really been to any nightclubs in the US, but I know that clubbing in Dubai (and Abu Dhabi) is a bit different because you have the added element that everyone is from a different place. Nightclubs and bars here are generally attached to hotels so that they are allowed to serve alcohol, and because of that the crowds there are mixtures of tourists, locals, residents, visitors, etc. If there's a certain nationality you're especially attracted to, you'll probably find it in a Dubai club. In addition to the standard "what's your name?" you also get "where are you from?" when you're in a nightclub. I met one guy in the club who asked me this second question, and upon my saying that I was American, he pulled open his shirt to reveal a tattoo on his chest that said "Saddam" with a picture of a lion. I was stunned. After verifying that the man was Iraqi and the tattoo was indeed a tribute to Saddam Hussein, the former Iraqi dictator, I asked him when he got the tattoo. His only response was "before he died." I was surprised that he let me take a picture:

Saddam Hussein tattoo

As a sidenote to this story, you might worry about me and wonder if I ever feel unsafe or threatened in Dubai. The answer is a very strong no--I haven't felt threatened by another person at any point during my trip here. Dubai is a remarkably safe city, and there is a strong police presence that makes me feel very secure here. It helps that there are special sections of the public buses and metro reserved especially for women. The only times I've felt like I was at risk is when I'm riding in cars on the Dubai highways--the Middle East in general is known for its crazy drivers and Dubai, while certainly far safer than other places like Saudi Arabia and Egypt, is no exception.

After spending the night in Abu Dhabi, my friends and I then had a huge lunch at a comfy Arabian cafe, complete with hummous, pita, and (my new love) Moroccan tea. Afterward we visited Emirates Palace, a luxury "7-star" hotel in Abu Dhabi. Its most expensive suite will set you back $11,500 for one night. The palace was beautiful inside and out. This is the only place in the world with an ATM that gives you gold pieces instead of cash--a symbol of the luxury and wealth of this oil-rich emirate.

Courtyard at Emirates Palace (tiny me in the center!)